Tasting: a bunch trying to catch up with my publishing

• 1997 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages – USA, California, Sonoma County (7/22/2009)
  A bit of bricking on the edges. Currant, pencil lead, anise in a light body wine. Tannins are still pronounced but the fruit is a tad thin. Drink up now. Significant downturn since 2004. (88 pts.)
• 2003 Sloan – USA, California, Napa Valley (7/2/2009)
  Some blueberry, tobacco, and sage, but that’s about all the positives I can note about this wine. Not flawed. Out of balance, the fruit was awkward rather than being integrated. Heavy alcohol aroma and taste (in fact it burns the throat). Astringent. Overbearing raw, green oak. With time in the decanter, the EToH blew off a bit but the wine’s rough edges just became sharp pointy corners that hurt. This reminded me of one of those wines that you get poured for you from the bar at a big party or event and you decide to switch to beer. Perhaps acceptable if in the sub-$10 category, but I’m quite surprised at the low quality here. Yes, 2003 was a difficult year in Napa but this wine is an example of the need for winemakers to adapt to a vintage rather than trying to force that big Napa style. I would have bulked this wine off and declassed the vintage. I’m a literal scorer so this below average wine would have received the same score no matter the price, but it probably would have escaped the scathing comments. (73 pts.)
• 2005 Raymond Vineyard & Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – USA, California, Napa Valley (6/28/2009)
  Spicy with a dark berry medium long finish. Disconcerting alcohol aftertaste. Not wonderful, but not bad. It’s one of those wines that it all depends on how much you paid for it and what your wine budget is. I got this one free in a gift bag. I’d say it’s worth about $35 when compared with its peers. (83 pts.)
• 2004 Adrian Fog Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (7/20/2009)
  My experience with Adrian Fog pinot is that it is built for the cellar. This one was no exception: the 2004 is starting to open up but still could use some time. Tart cherry, cola, black olives, forest floor, and a touch of celery seed in this medium bodied wine. Not big and fruity but rather subtle and complex. (90 pts.)
• 2001 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (7/2/2009)
  Roasted almonds, lemon meringue pie, green apples… nice acidity keeps it light and uplifting. Drink now. (92 pts.)
• 2005 WesMar Pinot Noir Oehlman Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (7/1/2009)
  Elegant and very delicate in both flavor and texture. Strawberry, citrus, crushed tea leaves, and a bit of black olive: as the wine opens in the glass each taste offers a slightly different nuance. Lovely. (90 pts.)
• 2000 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon – USA, California, Napa Valley (6/25/2009)
  Rather reticent nose but lovely flavors of raspberries, chocolate, and espresso. Not a big wine, or built for longer aging, but drinking just fine right now. (89 pts.)
• 2004 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley (6/16/2009)
  Big, boisterous wine with blueberry fruit, woodsmoke, molasses, grilled meat, and sweet mouthfeel. Really heavy alcohol nose eventually blows off but I just have to ask “why?” to the 16.7% abv. Another taster said a “well-made fruit bomb, but not my style.” I agree. (88 pts.)
• 2006 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Alberigi – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (6/10/2009)
  Dark and brooding, earthy and dusty. Hot nose, tannic finish. Rum soaked cherries, charred wood, soy. Less acidic than Terra Neuma from same vintage but hold also for 2-3 years.
• 2006 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Terra Neuma – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (6/10/2009)
  Tart Strawberry, rhubarb, sage… big mouthfeel and will ultimately, I predict, be a great wine, but currently overshadowed by puckering acidity. Hold for 2-3 years.
• 2000 Château Lescalle – France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur (6/9/2009)
  A shy wine that doesn’t show much even after an hour in the glass. A pleasant attack of slightly sour raspberry, pine box, and a bit of pencil lead but thin on the palate with a short finish. Drink now. (83 pts.)

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