I really shouldn’t be telling you this since this restaurant is just a mile or two from my house, the food was awesome, and six of us were able to snag a table without a reservation on Friday night at about 8PM. I guess I know that easy access isn’t going to last whether I let the cat out of the bag or not.
Commis is a fantastic new place at 3859 Piedmont Avenue in Oakland / 510-653-3902. Chef and founder, James Syhabout, after many years with David Kinch at the famous South Bay restaurant Manresa, has opened a small, very sparsely decorated, well staffed, eatery where the food does the talking.
The format is a three course Prix Fixe for $59 and folks may choose items from any section of the short menu to serve as your appetizer, main course, and dessert. Portions are adjusted accordingly. We all chose to skip the dessert section and load up on apps and entrees. There were no complaints, only raves, for all the food served to our table that night. I may be missing a dish or two, but I do remember:
Monterey Bay Sardines, lightly cured then smoked with green tomato confit in rhubarb juice, bronze fennel and pollen
Soft Farm Egg with Potato and Allums, fermented black garlic and pork jowl
Morro Bay Cod with Brandade, mussel liquor and vermouth, pardron petter
Corn Fed Chicken, Poached then Roasted in Summer Savory, crushed english peas, crepes emulsified with foie gras
Corkage is $20 for the first bottle, $30 for the second, however one corkage is waived for each bottle purchased from their short, well-thought, fairly priced list. Our choices:
NV Fracois Pinon Chenin Blanc Brut Dose Vouvray $48
2007 Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay Cheverny $30
2004 Match Butterdragon (brought)
2006 Match Baconbrook (brought)
All the wines were excellent — if I do say so myself — but especially surprising was the 2006 Baconbrook. This wine will not be released until this fall and typically our Baconbrook vintages are more for the cellar than immediate consumption, however, this bottle was singing that night.
So, I guess I have spoiled this “secret” for myself and the few who have stumbled upon this place that doesn’t even have an exterior sign yet. Is there any way I can discourage you from going and crowding it up? I know, and this is the honest truth: Parking is a pain in the butt and they are now reading the meters until 8PM in Oakland. Stay away from Commis!